Friday, January 9, 2009

Be a Leather Authority

All there is to know...

"Naked Leather" simply means Unblemished. There is no scars or uneven grain in the garment

Split grain is any leather that is not from the actual outside layer of a cow's hide - better known as suede. It is more flexible than top grain leather.It is not as durable, or waterproof as top-grain.

Top,full grain leather is from the smooth outside layer of a cow's hide. It is more durable and stiffer than split grain, and fares well against water and abrasions.

Just like for the cow.. Leather adjusts to the temperature to keep you warm in winter, and still cool for spring and fall making IT the perfect garment material.

When choosing your full grain leather, keep in mind the types of conditioning...

Oil-tanned Leather is breathable, but the leather can wear down and become less durable over time without periodic Mink oil (or other oil-based) conditioning (pbevolution Jackets,Chaps, vests)

Silicone tanned leather is more resistant to water, but is stiffer and takes longer to break in. Used in those new "pbevolution" boots you're looking to buy!!


There are 4 basic kinds of waterproofing methods for Leather

Oil Based: Oil Based compounds soften leather making it more plyable and, more rip proof.

Wax Based: Wax-based products are quite functional in waterproofing riding boots, provided the wax is reapplied regularly. Be sure to buff the boots after applying to get rid of the excess- it can attract dirt and grime. The main drawback is that wax based waterproofers cut down on the breathablity of the boot. Your feet don't get as much air when perspiring, and once the boots are wet, they take longer to dry.(not recommended for jackets,Vests etc)

Silicone Based: Stitching and glue can break down under the high petroleum content of silicone products. Your leather will also give off fumes while drying. Silicone products stiffen the leather when exposed to low temperatures, and they do not aid in conditioning the leather. Silicone is recommended as opposed to wax based products for boots with a Gore-Tex liner, because it is more breathable.

Water Based:Fluoropolymer: This type of waterproofing comes in a spray can, and has been rated the best by leading authorities on the subject. It can be used on leather that have been previously treated by a different method. It dries quickly, repels stains, and does not change the appearance of most leather but, does not condition the leather (test treat an inconspicuous area first if concerned about staining)

There is also a simple "waterproof rule" to follow when buying leather...

Look for garments with as few seams as possible. Stitched seams become weak spots as the materials degrade, inviting leaks.

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